Daxuecheng – Indian Curry Trail
By Taha Husain Pictures by Andrei Stevensson
Daxuecheng, Chongqing’s university town, found towards the end of Line, contains a curiously more multicultural make up than the Chongqing city proper. Due to the university, the leafy suburb manages to pull a large amount of foreign students, particularly from neighbouring South Asian nations, who are settled far more densely than foreigners in the city.
A noticeable community of South Asians live there to study, from countries such as India, Pakistan and Bangladesh. The cuisines and culture of the three greatly overlap, and all have a rich history of serving under the broad label of ‘Indian restaurants’- especially in that United States and United Kingdom. The cuisine, known for spicy curries and explosive flavours, has penetrated China less. The entire city of Chongqing can barely muster up three options at once, with several running out of business in the past. In contrast, Daxeucheng currently houses four, Masala Indian restaurant, Gagar Indian restaurant, Aaja Aaja Indian cuisine and Khan’s Pakistani culture (unreviewed).
Sustained by a mix of South Asian students and locals, the town itself has a flair, where students surely interact and share cultures. There’s an artsy, metropolitan feel to the streets, with a lot young people and art installations, much of which is supplied by the students and hosted in a gallery, as well as outdoors.
We’ve visited them and seen how they distinguish and differ from one another. Many expats will be familiar with staples of Punjabi cuisine, with oily, thick curries. Indian food sold commercially is generally oilier and less time intensive than what’s made at home, not to mention altered for foreign tastes. It’s pleasure to see how chefs circumvent the time demand, appeal to local tastes, and explore an endlessly diverse cuisine.
ADDRESS
30 – 2, Houde Road, Shapingba District
沙坪坝区厚德30号附2号
PRICE LIST
Kadi Pakora 35
Tawa Roti 4 (plain) 6 (butter)
Kingfisher Strong Beer (Indian beer) 20 / can
Masala Dosa 25
Chai 7 / cup
Tandoori Chicken 25
all prices in RMB
Aaja Aaja
The newest and smallest establishment has distinguished itself from the usual Punjabi and North Indian trends. The South Indian staple Dosa, a vegan wrap made from daal (lentils) and rice, filled with a soft, fried mixture of potatoes, onions, garlic, black seeds and other flavourings. Masala spices mixed into a dip complement the light taste, with a generous portion of two large Dosa’s per order. A rarer staple of Indian cuisine abroad, it was as authentic and delightful as I’ve ever had.
Similarly rare, is Kadi Pakora, more typically found in homes or street-side restaurants in India and Pakistan. A vegetarian dish made from gramflour and yogurt, creates a thin yellow curry. Milder in spice, with a creamy taste. Pakora dumplings can be found it, made from gramflour and often called onion baji in the west. Topped off with red chilies and black seeds, it is the essential South Asian comfort food.
It goes well with tawa roti, a simple bread made on an Indian-style wok. The bread expands into a ball, thin, healthier and cheaper than other Indian breads, it is another unique staple of economic home and street side cooking.
More glamorous, is the Tandoori chicken – Though available at most Indians establishments, it is unique in China for being prepared in a Tandoor clay oven, grilling the spiced chicken so soft it slides of the bone. Goes well with lemon or lime, and prepared in a genuine Tandoor.
Overall Aaja Aaja does a lot to distinguish itself, with a lovely host and a simple but stylishly decorated space, fairy lights across the ceiling and a semi-visible kitchen.
Chongqing Dezhuang Industry (Group) Co., Ltd.
重庆德庄实业（集团）有限公司
Address: NO.10, Changdian Road, Nan’an District, Chongqing, CHINA
地址：重庆市南岸区长电10号
官方微信：cqdz_cn
Official wechat: cqdz_cn
官方微博：德庄
Official weibo: 德庄 Dezhuang